Day 11: Penguins... and shopping

Alan here still at Port Lockroy.

We are rather weather bound. No snow just lots of wind, estimating 50 knots plus. We can't say for sure how strong the wind is, as the yacht had its wind indicator blown off on its way from New Zealand to South America! The
rigging is howling, swinging us often violently around by the anchor.
Bizarrely,all seventeen of us are currently sitting in the saloon watching a DVD of Aviator and drinking beer. Some folk even have pink champagne. Not sure what Scott or Shackleton would make of that. I don't remember this being on the itinerary. Actually, not in so many words but it was really.
Even the proper Antarctic explorers had long periods of weather induced inactivity. Every now and then, there is a really strong gust and the captain and first mate stand up and peer out anxiously only to sit back down and catch up on the film.

Anyway, this morning we went shopping... no really... to the only shop in
Antarctica. It is an ex British Base which the British Antarctic Survey has
rebuilt and is now used to both keep an eye on the nearby Gentoo Penguin
colony and to educate passing visitors. When I say the colony is close by,
what I mean the base is built on top of it. We landed after a brisk crossing
right into the middle of about 50 penguins scattered over the rocky island.
Once ashore I realised there was hundreds of penguins. Everywhere you stood
was evidence of Penguins, either poo, or regurgitated lunch. The smell by
all accounts is really powerful, but fortunately for me I have a cold so I
only enjoyed the odd whiff. Apparently, when in real flow the smell sticks
to your clothes for days. The penguins (named by a welsh sailor from
pen-gwyn, which means white head) are incredibly comical. It is impossible
not to be captivated them as they waddle around the land with their
incredibly badly designed body. Of course they are fantastic in the water
but on land, its so inept they fall over regularly or flap their wings
around just to keep balanced. With their funny black and white suits on, and
donkey braying sound, I could watch them for hours. However, a gale was
blowing over so after about 45 mins in the cold I had to stop photographing
and videoing (hope you liked the photos, thanks to Grant Smith for a loan of
his excellent camera).

Next was a visit to the Port Lockroy base. We met three people and I am not sure it had many more. When we met two of the staff it became clear why the Scottish flag was flapping, so violently, in the wind. There was a Scottish
couple who served in what could just about be called a shop. It sold postcards, t-shirts saying Antarctica, and some maps. Its a big hit with the
tourist ships as apart from the Bingo and the booze there is nothing for them to spend their money on. Apparently, one American guy spent $750 just in this shop. I found that hard to imagine. Not because there was nothing to
buy, which there was, but that there even was $750 worth of stock to spend your money on. Anyway, it was a fun distraction.

After milling around for a while we were rounded up by Murray, our first
mate, to get us back to the good ship Evohe. We had much more fun that
expected as the wind had really blown up. Murray said he could only take six
of us on the RIB. We soon discovered why. We motored round the point and
directly into the gale force wind. Even given the short fetch the swell had
built up, driving short sharp waves into our path. Murray gunned the engine
and asked us all to move back in the boat. We could hear the anxiety in his
voice. No wonder. The water temperature was only just above freezing and the
waves crashed over the bow. With every big wave the spume blasted in our
faces. We were all killing ourselves laughing as each of us got soaked with
the frigid water. With the salt water in our mouth and the ice-cream
foreheads from the stinging water we almost had a sensory overload. The fun
nearly ended with us in the drink as the RIB came up to Evohe, at a fair
lick to keep the speed up against the wind. Murray attempted to stick it
into reverse to arrive neatly at the yacht's ladder. However, he missed the
gear and only just managed to avoid a full speed side impact. With us all
still laughing he circled and this time got into reverse for a more
controlled arrival.

Have to say it was the most fun I have ever had on a shopping trip. So, to
all these large shopping complexes, please listen. If you want men to shop,
include Penguins and a blast of Antarctic waters mixed with adventure and
risk. Oh, and don't ask us to part with any money...