15th February - Another First Ascent and the sun shone.

Chris Here. Position s65.35.2,w64.35.4 anchored off the west coast of Chavex island. We anchored last night in the lee of Woolpack Island. The first anchorage we went for was not suitable as there was a 300 foot high iceberg in the bay with large seracs at risk of falling off. However, with the weather good Steve anchored safely and we were gently rocked to sleep by
a gentle swell. With good weather this morning we set course at 4 am for Chavez Island. At 7 am Mark Seddon woke everyone up with the news that we had found a landing site, the weather was good and we were aiming for an early start. Everyone tumbled out of bed, hurriedly packed ruck sacks, ate breakfast and made sandwiches for lunch. The process of getting everyone's
packs ready, loading the crampons and ice axes into a protective bag (don't want to puncture the dinghy) and getting everyone into the dinghy, is now becoming quite slick.

Murray found us a sheltered and easy landing site and we were all ready to climb by 9 am. Our initial climb was up a glacier, and amazingly was in glorious sunshine with no wind. So here we were in Antarctica climbing in just shirts and applying loads of sun cream, to avoid sunburn. As we climbed higher so did the sun and we all became rather hot. Today Alan and I were split up into different groups. I climbed with Guy Cotter and Dan Jones, Alan climbing with Mark Bryan and Luis Benitez as their guide. The views as we moved through an area of deep crevasses and large ice blocks which had fallen from ice cliffs above, were fantastic. We could see the Evohe floating in a beautiful blue sea. All three groups reached a saddle giving access to three different peaks and set off for one peak each. Guy guided Dan and I towards the summit of a slightly dome shaped peak whilst we watched the other groups setting off up steep ridges. We reached a stance about 20 feet below the actual summit of our mountain and found ourselves separated from the summit by a deep crack in the snow. Undeterred Guy led this pitch which involved a few steps down to a snow block in the crack then a big step round to a 15 foot nearly vertical ice climb to the actual summit. The only thing about this final pitch was that it was above a more
than 2000' drop straight down into the sea. After summoning up lots of courage, I followed Guy and then Dan followed me. The three of us claimed the first ascent of this peak at position . We spent quite some time admiring the views across to the Antarctic Peninsula with us seeing
right up to the ice cap in the middle of the Peninsula and reflections of mountains in the ice speckled sea. If anything the climb down from the summit was more nerve wracking than the ascent, however it was achieved safely.

As we descended we heard on the radio from the other groups that they had found unsafe snow conditions on their peaks and were retreating. Both groups then ascended the summit which we had just left. Guy led us on a traverse to look for access to yet another peak, however there were too many crevasses and bergschrunds which made access from our position impossible.
We then descended back to the landing site and sat in the incredibly warm sun waiting for the dinghy to arrive. We watched Antarctic Terns flitting around and saw a skua and chick sitting in their rocky nest.

Today has been a fantastic experience with great views, a good climb and fantastic weather. Over to Alan who will give you details of his day.

Alan here: well I don't think there are enough superlatives in the English Dictionary which could describe today. There is no one that could not be moved by just being in Antarctica, surrounded by glaciers, icebergs, sea and a huge sky. When the sun shines this vista opens up and becomes gob smacking. Leaving sea level behind and gaining even one thousand feet leaves you reathless from the view and inadequately eloquent to describe. The sun sparkles on the ocean, on the snow, on the overhanging ice. It dances on the waves so far below. The super clear air meant that, from a height of 2000 feet, we could see over 150 miles. It was an incredible thought, in that whole area there was only our party and absolutely no evidence of man apart from our boat nestling among the icebergs.

So this morning after a gust busting and calf screaming romp over the crevasse and up to the saddle I was surprised to hear the radio call. Our expedition leader had suggested that "Scottish" Mark, Luis and I were to have a look a rather intimidating peak. It started with a narrowing snow ridge that led up a vertical rock band and then a ridiculously steep pyramid of snow. I was pretty certain even before we got closer that there was no way I would be able to climb it. We did push along the narrow snow arête for a distance but it became clear that the snow was really bad an we would not go any further. It was a group decision and really an easy one. So we turned around, deciding to bypass the middle peak, that Chris had summited. We thought we might manage the fourth peak but a huge crevasse ran across most of the middle of the island preventing access so we decided to catch up with the team that were heading up the third peak. Unfortunately, about 100 meters from the summit the snow was unconsolidated with large ball bearing crystals so we could go no further. So both teams headed back down and from our descent we picked a new line of ascent on the peak Chris had climbed. We reached what I thought was the summit only to discover what Chris described above. The steep snow/ice climb was short but really exposed. I too felt nxious on this little climb but was brilliant to tand on the top and be blown away by the views. I only took 100 photos today so feel sorry for all the folks reading this coos I might just bore them to death by photo... as I type this icebergs are banging the hull so I will have to dream of today's experience to help me get to sleep.