21 Feb: no landing sites

Location: Paradise Harbour but still searching for an Anchorage at 2300 GMT
(Location s64.51,w62.52)

Alan here: We spent all day yesterday motoring from Prospect Point which was
fine as a rest day was definitely appreciated. Today though is one of
frustration. By 8pm last night, we had motored to the ultra safe anchorage
of Vernadsky in the Argentinean Islands which confusingly has a Ukrainian
research station on it. This morning I was woken by the now usual sound of
the generator starting, the large diesel engines roaring into life and the
anchor winch creakingly haul up its load. I just registered the sounds as
normal and dozed off. I was rather surprised when the next time I looked I
didn't see any of my fellow hutch mates in bed. I have never out slept the
American, Dan, who we have nicknamed the Narcoleptic because he sleeps so
much. So I quickly got up to see I had missed breakfast but Tamsin, soon
rattled up some toast. During my slumber we had motored across the bay
towards the mainland searching for a landing spot. There was one possible
but the skipper said he could drop us off but could not be sure he would be
able to pick us up at all. The south west wind was picking up the floating
ice debris and pushing it in the direction of this bay so Steve, reckoned
that it would soon full up with ice. He suggested, seriously I think, that
he drop us off and head for a known anchorage and we could walk over to meet
him. This would involve an estimated four day walk and climb over uncharted
mountains so was quickly ruled out. That would be outwith the parameters of
safety. So back to motoring up the coast towards the Lemaire Channel and a
look for access points onto the land. You just could not believe that in
such a huge coast that there is almost no places not completely blocked by
ice and hence no landing spaces.

While Steve got motoring the guides took a chance to ask for feedback on the
trip so far. This was a really interesting exercise in frankness and
diplomacy. Come what may, we are locked together in this 82 foot prison come
expedition ship, for the next two weeks. We have all been getting on really
well considering the levels of confines. It is just as well that we have had
such great days out in the mountains because I can feel cabin fever creeping
in with a second continuous day of motoring under our belts. So the feedback
session started with some silence. I was first to speak and said that I did
not want a ski tour again, I wanted to climb and something a wee bit
technical at that. As I have mentioned before skiing on a rope is a form of
torture for me. The others seem ok with it heading up hill but I must have a
much reduced ability to cope with someone's else's pace. It also is not very
socialable since you are stuck at the end of the rope out of reach of
conversation and with your head down watching the bl**dy rope, you can't
even enjoy the amazing surroundings. So I made my feelings clear, there was
no surprise. Slowly, the others spoke out and expressed their own views at
all times trying to be diplomatic. It was good to get things off our chest
and will be interesting to see just how much of our feedback the guides act
on and modify their behaviour.

One of the most frustrating areas for several of us is down to the
guide-client relationship. Apparently, we are by and large, a far more
experienced and independent group than is normally guided. So we would
prefer to be much more involved in expedition and individual trip decisions.
We would also like to be at the front where possible, recognising the need
for the much more experienced guide at key points. This does not seem to be
really possible as the guide has to be seen to be in charge at all times and
given the remoteness and seriousness of our location something that has to
be taken seriously. However, several of us, still think that there is ground
for more flexibility. So time will tell. Unfortunately we have lost another
whole day to exploring, by sea, likely landing places and I really hope that
we find somewhere to get on to land tomorrow.

So with two weeks to go on the trip and another week for contingency and
flights I can confess I am starting to feel home sick. I am missing my wife
and kids. Not surprisingly missing space too. There is not far to walk on a
boat. I went up the mast today to take some photos as we cruised through the
Lemaire Channel and I joked that from 12 meters up it was the furthest I had
been from anyone in a fortnight. Try imagining that. For those of you
reading this that don't know me I live a sort of duality of personality,
being sometimes very sociable but more commonly the opposite; needing a lot
of time and space to myself.

Enough rambling. The weather has definitely changed in the last two days
with daylight temperatures hovering around zero. Any trip on deck now
requires a duvet jacket, gloves and today two hats. Even as I type this by
the little diesel burner in the saloon I am wearing my down jacket and hat.
Our living accommodation is probably about five degrees but our sleeping
quarters colder. This is where having four of us so close together probably
has a minor advantage.

So no tales of daring do today but have had a chance to stick a couple more
photos. The one of me is for my mum's benefit who was rather over come to
hear from her wee son in Antarctica. She especially was concerned by the
grinding sound as we crashed through icebergs. Not sure how much you can see
of our rabbit hutch the other from a selection of magical shots one evening.

We are unable to read the feedback posted on the web as we only have email
but if you want to send us some you can indirectly by emailing
antarctica@actionus.co.uk <mailto:antarctica@actionus.co.uk>

Thanks for you support and please donate to our charity CLIC via the link on
our website www.antarcticadventure.blogspot.com
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Also, for those who have subscribed to the update email, you may not be
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One last also, it has been pointed out that my spelling and grammar can be
suspect for which I do not seek forgiveness but typing this up on a moving
boat after a long day, selecting and compressing photos and then sending the
blog takes a bit of time and spelling is down my list. So keep
suffering!!!!! ; -)